Leber Jeweler Leber Jeweler Stores Hours Customer Service Shopping Cart
Leber Jeweler Leber Jeweler Leber Jeweler
Home Shop Earthwise Jewelry The Basics Our Story Journal Leber Jeweler

From Our Workbench- Ma Su Su Three-Stone

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMa Su Su is one of our most popular designs, with its modern, clean lines and low profile. But adding diamond sides really dresses this classic up!

The Ma Su Su Three-Stone ring is shown here with a 3/4 carat blue sapphire in the center, but works great with any fair-trade colored gemstone or one of our conflict-free Canadian diamonds. We hand-make each ring here in our Chicago workshop so this design is adaptable to wide range of gemstone sizes and can be customized in a myriad of ways.

The Biggest Natural Resource Heist in Modern History

KachinWe were leaders in helping to expose the myriad of issues with Burma’s gem trade, both in the US and internationally. Funding military abuses against civilians, feeding into a shadow economy control by drug empires, and fueling violent conflicts that led this Southeast Asian country into a free fall, the gem trade in Burma has long been a sector firmly in the grip of the military elite and drug lords.

Now a report by human rights group Global Witness takes a new look at Burma’s lucrative jade trade and find things haven’t changed from the dark days a decade ago. Described as what “may well be the biggest natural resource heist in modern history,” between 50 and 80 percent of Burma’s gem resource is smuggled directly to China, lining the pockets of senior members of Burma’s military as well as that of the country’s largest and best-financed rebel army, the United Wa State Army.

Most of Burma’s jade, which is part of a $31 billion industry, is mined in Hpakant, Kachin State, an area that is still the home to an ongoing civil war that has killed thousands and left 100,000 people displaced. Yet amidst this conflict, the gem trade thrives. Sadly, in the wake of the US decision to relax many of the sanctions against Burma, US companies raced in to reap their share. According to the Global Witness Report, a major US soft drink manufacturer has partnered with a jade trade-linked firm tied to the military and a US-based heavy equipment manufacturer has alleged ties to an internationally wanted drug lord.

For what it’s worth, one of the last remaining US sanctions still in force against Burma is directed against this country’s ruby and jade trade. Our advocacy in Washington DC helped get this legislation banning Burmese gems introduced, our testimony to Congress helped get this law passed, and we have and will remain persistent in our efforts to ensure that the US does not import Burmese ruby and jade until the day when those rare and finite resources truly benefit the people of Burma.

Based on the Global Witness report and what we’ve personally seen over the past seventeen years of working tirelessly on the Burma issue, it may be a long time before that day comes.

Handcrafted Jewelry: Why Well-Made Matters

BenchEvery Earthwise Jewelry® piece is made here in Chicago in our workshop. Most companies can’t make that sort of claim. In the world of jewelry, the pride of craft has fallen by the wayside as every company seems focused on being the biggest not the best. So they shift their production “somewhere else.”

There’s too much outsourcing in the world. Big companies main focus is on making products as cheaply as possible because to them, profit eclipses pride in craft. So instead they spend their money on marketing an image rather than on simply paying skilled craftspeople to construct things that are well-made.

Perhaps this is an old-fashioned belief in this age of free trade and globalization. But as a business that has made jewelry in Chicago since 1921, every company president from my grandfather on down to me has known how to make jewelry with their own hands. How many jewelry CEOs can make that claim?

Pretty in Pink

DSC_0530Pink gold (aka “rose gold”) is becoming quite popular lately. The colored gold brings a touch of warmth and vintage feel to any ring. Combined with a design that echoes the early 20th century like this custom Earthwise Jewelry Canadian diamond engagement ring, we think this metal really sings.

At Leber Jeweler, we make all our pieces here in our Chicago workshop especially for each client we serve. If you want any of our designs in rose gold, just ask!

A River Runs…Orange

GoldKingMineGold mining. That’s to blame. In this case, a contractor, working for the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) inadvertently let loose 3 million gallons of heavy metal-filled waste water that has turned the Animas River in Southern Colorado orange.

The Gold King Mine near Silverton, Colorado, is one of a large number of abandoned small mines in the Upper Animas Basin that has long lain dormant after years of being used to abuse the earth to procure gold. Scientists say it’s the largest untreated mine drainage in the state. So work was necessary to clean up the mess. Mining companies and free-spirited miners have a long history of leaving disasters-in-waiting when their mining projects cease to be profitable. So it’s up to someone else to clean up their messes.

One water test from the spill showed lead levels 12,000 times greater than normal. The wastewater also contained extremely high levels of arsenic, cadmium, beryllium and mercury. All are byproducts of gold mining. 

According to our friends as Earthworks, there are roughly 500,000 similar mines in need of clean up.

Like I said, it’s not the fault of the contractor or the EPA, who have wanted to designate the area around Gold King Mine a Superfund site for clean up. Blame it on man’s endless thirst to mine for gold.

At Leber Jeweler Inc, we exclusively use 100% recycled gold in our Earthwise Jewelry. This stems the need for new hard rock mining to procure fresh metal. Enough damage has been done to the earth. Let’s use the gold we have, recycle it when we’re through and not repeat the errors of the past. Because if gold mining continues, the Gold King Mine spill will just be a precursor to many disasters yet to come.

Ma Su Su Pavé wedding set

_DSC3429One of our most popular designs is the Ma Su Su engagement ring. A simple, elegant setting that lays close to the finger. A great ring for someone with a more active lifestyle. Works wonderfully with either a Canadian diamond or a fair trade colored gemstone as the center stone.

When worn together with the Ma Su Su Pavé wedding band, you can be stylish and socially responsible in one felled swoop.


The Supreme Court Has Spoken

250px-EqualJusticeUnderLawMarriage is now legal for everyone!

No union is more profound than marriage, for it embodies the highest ideals of love, fidelity, devotion, sacrifice, and family. In forming a marital union, two people become something greater than once they were. As some of the petitioners in these cases demonstrate, marriage embodies a love that may endure even past death. It would misunderstand these men and women to say they disrespect the idea of marriage. Their plea is that they do respect it, respect it so deeply that they seek to find its fulfillment for themselves. Their hope is not to be condemned to live in loneliness, excluded from one of civilization’s oldest institutions. They ask for equal dignity in the eyes of the law. The Constitution grants them that right.

-Justice Anthony Kennedy, June 26, 2015

…And Now He’s Not.

RafaelMIn a shocking reversal and despite the fact all charges against him were dropped, Angola has decided to prosecute Rafael Marques anyways. He once again faces the prospect of jail time.

We will continue our calls to have his rights protected and will work through our channels to help his cause. Stay tuned.

Victory! Rafael Marques is Free!

RafaelMOur friend, a human rights activist facing ten years in prison and $1.2 million in fines for speaking out on behalf of artisanal diamond miners and their families, walked out of court a free man today. Along with a coalition of NGOs including Amnesty International, two jewelers spoke out in support of Rafael while the entire diamond and jewelry industry remained largely silent, despite the diligent reporting on his case by some of the best journalists in the US jewelry trade journals.

He is allowed to continue to monitor the situation in Angola’s diamond fields, and the generals agreed to ensure the human rights situation  is improved. Which in the end, is all he really wanted.

This one counts in the “victory” column. I strongly suspect that if individuals hadn’t spoken up on his behalf, the results may have been very, very different.

Two Jewelers Take a Stand

RafaelA short while ago, we were approached by a coalition of NGOs hoping to get retail jewelers to speak up on behalf of investigative journalist, Rafael Marques de Morais, whose book Blood Diamonds: Corruption and Torture in Angola, features detailed accounts of torture and human rights abuses in Angola’s diamond sector. We have known Rafael for many years and have highlighted his work in the past.

The major jewelry and diamond companies in the US were approached to make a statement of support. All but two remained silent.

As I told an industry trade publication, “For many in our industry, ethical issues are all about damage control. It’s disappointing that people don’t want to take a proactive stand.”

I have no doubt now that we have taken a stand, both with our initial statement in March and with this joint public letter, other jewelry companies will follow our lead (once their PR department’s tell them it’s a good idea) now that two prominent jewelers have made public statements calling for the charges against Rafael Marques to be dropped and requesting Angola’s President José Eduardo dos Santos “to order the formation of an independent commission that will fairly and objectively investigate the allegations of human rights abuses committed against artisanal diamond mining communities reported by Rafael Marques.”.

We will continue our efforts to speak up on behalf of Rafael, as well as the countless artisanal diamond miners who have been victims of Angola’s diamond trade. To us, there are many things far more important than trying to protect the image of the global diamond industry.