Synthetic Diamond: Impressive Simulacra or Just Plain Fake?

Recently, much has appeared in print about a new breed of synthetic diamonds. Some proponents are lauding these laboratory-grown stones as an impressive replacement for natural diamonds, but there are several key areas that must be considered before such accolades are considered fact.

We at Leber Jeweler Inc are vocal advocates for increased awareness of both human rights and environmental issues in relationship to diamonds. Despite the fact that many lab-grown diamonds (frequently marketed as "cultured diamonds" to disassociate the connection to the clinical sounding "laboratory") are created in the U.S., it is common practice to ship these rough, unfinished stones overseas for cutting to countries that have historically proven to have exceedingly poor labor conditions. (In countries like China, India, and other Southeast Asian nations, child and near-slave labor conditions exist in many gem-cutting facilities, according to the International Labor Organization.) Because synthetic gemstones tend toward lower dollar values when compared to their naturally created brethren, lower paid labor is the rule, rather than the exception.

Diamonds, like most species of natural gemstones, are found in under-developed parts of the globe. These valuable natural assets increasingly are proving to be a critical element in the development of these areas, especially in the post-Apartheid era. (While historically, the diamond industry exploited indigenous populations in Africa for their natural resources, these same communities are now reaping increasing financial gain as laws are introduced to protect and return their mineral rights.) In regions like Canada, specific efforts have been made to allow the local population to have significant input in the development of, as well as increased job training and opportunities with, the diamond mining ventures. While even the most sensitive mining does have some environmental impact, these local communities rely so heavily on the diamond mining ventures and the revenue they bring the community that mining is proving to be a necessary part of their local economy. Without projects like diamond mining, many remote regions would drift deeper into the economic abyss from which they have slowly begun to emerge.

Many in the synthetic gemstone industry have been quick to label their product zero-impact, citing the fact it was grown in a laboratory rather than in nature. However, to create any synthesized gemstone you need to start with basic raw materials that only come from nature since the lab is only providing the conditions to grow, not the material. (Everything comes from the earth, in one form or another, regardless of how it may be hyped.) While phrases like zero-impact and eco-friendly make enticing tag words, they run the risk of becoming what is commonly referred to as "green-washing", which is an attempt to tie into a genuine ethical concern as part of a marketing strategy.

Another key point to weigh if considering the purchase of a lab-created diamond is the fact that the value of this stone is going to continue to decrease in dollar value. Because these stones are mass produced (the technology is frequently geared for other purposes other than jewelry) and there is no limit to the amount of stones produced, the price will continue to descend since supply is all but endless. While this may not be a major consideration, one should reflect on the fact that diamonds (for better or worse) have historically continued to go up in value and will do so in the foreseeable future. While we would never recommend buying any diamond solely as an investment, it would be most troubling for us to promote a product we know is pre-determined to go down in value indefinitely.

At Leber Jeweler Inc, our solution to the problems tied to diamonds is to offer Canadian-origin diamonds. These natural, un-enhanced gemstones come with our assurance that the mining operations adhere to Canada's strict environmental and labor standards and are cut by skilled adult craftspeople who are paid a living wage and guaranteed a safe work environment. For those customers who wish to avoid diamonds all together, we offer a broad range of colored, natural-origin gemstones that uphold fair trade standards and allow revenue from the sale of these gems to return to the community, both self-administered by the local community and through co-operative projects.

While synthetic diamonds are an interesting trend (although not a new invention since diamonds have been synthesized since the 1950's), we do not believe them to be an ethical solution to the problems that have been associated with the diamond trade. From an aesthetic view-point, they may look similar to a natural diamond (although almost all lab-grown diamonds are colored) but what does it say when the diamond you give to your beloved as a symbol of your love is synthetic and grown in a lab, rather than being a gift from nature? In our eyes, the answer is clear.